Irish independent watchmaker John McGonigle introduces his new brand Oileán; and a superb triple calendar chronograph with a reconstructed classical Swiss heart and contemporary styling which accentuates the very best of modern Irish design, infused with subtle nuances of a mystical celtic heritage.

Although it’s been a few years now since it happened, outside the watchmaking community, it’s not so widely known that the two brothers behind the acclaimed Irish indie haute horlogerie brand McGonigle had gone their separate ways. Thankfully it’s not been an acrimonious parting, nor down to any big falling out, but more to do with the logistics of synchronising a manufactory located in two countries. And possibly just a little bit of the over-familiarity which can occur between siblings working together. These things happen. I know.

In any case, it’s not a sad story you’re about to read; and indeed if anything, quite the opposite, because instead of having one McGonigle brand, in effect we now have two, and considering that each brings to the table two very different, premium hand crafted offerings, it’s hard to see that as being anything other than a good thing.

With all operations to do with the brand he formed with his brother Stephen now centralised near Neuchâtel, for the past few years John has kept himself as busy as ever, working on projects back home in Ireland, which range from historic restorations to technical trouble-shooter and consultant to the brands, aspects which have always been part of his working week as an independent watchmaker.

The break has also given him the time and opportunity to work on something new and typically special too. Taking its name from the Gaelic word for “Island”, Oileán is a watch, a philosophy and indeed a brand which is influenced by the McGonigle’s homeland, and features a modern stylised depiction of one of Ireland’s national hallmarks, the harp.

A truly striking piece of ethereal beauty, which boasts a horological full house of classical complications, Oiléan is a watch without comparison. With a transparent sapphire dial whose subtle grey-brown tint throws a shadow-like effect across the otherwise fully exposed mechanism beneath, it is an exquisitely conceived and executed piece, and one which is irresistibly eye catching on the wrist, with intricate detailing and immaculate finishing throughout.

It really only gets better as you begin to drink in the detail and get a feel for what it is, and what it represents on a personal level to its creator. Aesthetically, it is a thoroughly contemporary wristwatch which is presented in a round case of Grade 5 titanium, measuring 40mm across and 14.5mm tall, with contrasting brushed and polished finishes. Among its features are a concave bezel and convex sapphire glass, trapezoidal chronograph pushers in a flat-sided waist, and shallow filets on the sides of the lugs. The relief engraved polished silhouette of Oiléan’s harp motif adorns the crown.

Its dark smoked sapphire dial offers a view of the mechanism and its secrets within, and the display features outline subdials rings for the thirty-minute and twelve-hour chrono counters at the 3 and 6 o’clock positions, as well as for the small constant seconds at the 9. With so much information on show, the dial is remarkably legible, with each function and display clearly distinguishable. Beneath the tinted glass dial, the day and month discs are fully visible, aligning under a pair of central apertures where they step out of the shade, while the moon phase display fills the centre of the subdial at the 6. Around the edge of the dial, applied steel baton indices are accented with cool blue Super-LumiNova as are the tips of the unmistakable signature McGonigle hands, while the date is indicated by an arrow-tipped pointer which at midnight progresses forward around the date ring on the rehaut.

At the heart of the Oiléan HB-1 beats one of the most elegant and sophisticated Swiss movements of the twentieth century; the Valjoux 88. A historic hand-winding mechanism which epitomised the style of the classical complicated men’s watch, when it was produced between 1947 and 1974, and when the chance of acquiring a rare consignment of new old stock, unused movements came passing, there was no hesitation in seizing on the opportunity; a vision already forming in the watchmaker’s mind’s eye.

However, the ex-works finishing of the original movement left room for improvement, and so before any work could begin on the watches, each one was stripped right back to its component form, even separating the tiny spot welding on the coupling clutch, to be replaced with new pins and screws. From that starting point, the Valjoux movements were subjected to a transformative upgrading to haute horlogerie standards, and in the process, each and every original part was reworked and refined by polishing and reprofiling, with rounded exterior and interior angles sharpened, and countersinks embellished by hand bevelling, and the mainplate finished with traditional perlage decoration. In terms of enhancement of the engineering finesse, all of the chronograph functions benefitted from thinning and polishing, which ultimately led to reduced friction for a lighter, more precise actuation, and an even, less torturous torque spread throughout the mechanism.

Many of the original brass parts have been recreated in-house in steel, minuscule screws and surfaces have ben grained, angled and polished, and for the final touch, the chronograph bridge has been removed entirely and replaced with the beautiful Oiléan harp motif which gleams in its coating of gold plate.

Turned over, the sapphire caseback reveals the exceptional haute horlogerie reworking of this historic Valjoux 88 manual winding movement which derives 40 hours of power reserve and beats at 21’600 vib/h.

With each piece being manufactured by hand, and only a handful of pieces being produced each year, the Oiléan HB-1 is already a rare and collectible wristwatch. John McGonigle is back, because John McGonigle never actually went away.

Fact File: Oiléan HB-1 by John McGonigle

Reference: Oiléan HB-1
Manufacturer: John McGonigle
Gender: Mens/Unisex
Case: Grade 5 titanium
Case dimension: ø 40mm, H 14.5mm
Dial: Tinted sapphire with luminous hour indices and hands
Features: Triple calendar with moon phase and chronograph
Movement: In-house modified Valjoux 88 manual winding, 21’600 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, day, month, pointer date, moon phase, chronograph
Power reserve: 40 hours
Caseback: Sapphire glass
Water resistance: 30m
Bracelet: Calf skin or Cordovan Shell strap with pin buckle
Price: €32,000 (excl VAT)