If there’s one piece of watch industry news that’s pretty much guaranteed to stop the traffic and ensure that pandemics, protests and the daily grind of political pile-ups are all swept aside, it’s the news that Rolex has dropped its hotly predicted 2020 line-up for the centrepiece of its portfolio, the Submariner, and for a few days at least, the eyes of the watch world swivel in unison towards The Crown, and the only number in the world that really matters at all right now is 41.

And so at last the speculation can end. It is here. The new for 2020 Rolex Submariner collection. Around the globe and across the internet the forums have been bracing themselves for the deluge which habitually pushes their bandwidth to the limits as the trickle of gossip and hearsay surges into a torrent of opinions and debate, and a frenzy of organs-at-the-ready devotees on standby to shout down and negate the few who might dare to ask what indeed is it all about.

What indeed? Well, there are a couple of things actually. Most notable is that where usually the evolution of the Submariner has been somewhat sporadic, with one or two new references introduced at a time, followed by a wait of a couple of years for the next development, 2020 sees a suite of no fewer than eight new references, as the entire Submariner collection has been overhauled and served up in a new mic-dropping 41mm case; a step up of 1mm from its predecessor, which, depending on one’s point of view, is either perfectly fine, wholesome and acceptable, or infuriatingly meddlesome, and of course these positions, and all in between, are the subject of great debate right now.

While it’s true that to the eye of the casual passer-by there is little to distinguish a million dollar attic find from one of these current models, it’s also probable that there’s more chance of the former falling into the hands of the unaware by the grace of sheer good fortune than the latter, such is the demand for Rolex’ iconic diver and the sparsity of supply to its dealer network, and often a vital organ isn’t nearly enough to get your name anywhere near to the top of the waiting list. In fact it would probably make for very interesting and entertaining reading to see what kinds of offers have been proposed to Rolex dealers in exchange for favour in recent times. It’s a phenomenon pretty much unique to Rolex and in particular its stainless steel luxury sports utility watch, and one around which exists a remarkable secondary market of inflated prices which bear no resemblance to the manufacturer’s rrp, which does little to deter the ardent pursuer.

The 2020 Submariner collection is comprised of seven versions with date display and one without, which is more or less how the outgoing range looked. Of these, three, including the non-date version, are in Oystersteel, two are bi-metallic Rolesor steel and gold, two are full yellow gold and one full white gold.

A side by side scrutiny of new versus the outgoing design reveals the kind of detail tweaks which make the Rolex cognoscenti not one to get too deeply engaged in any disagreement with when it comes to the minutiae of his obsession. Along with the new 41mm case size, the lugs are revised, being ever so slightly narrower than before with a more pronounced tapering, but with a wider 21mm space between them, accommodating a broader bracelet, compensating for the reshaped lugs, and thus retaining the breadth at each end of the watch.

There are other subtle differences too, relating to the slightly larger case dimensions, and so the diameter of the bezel and dial area are scaled up marginally in line with this adjustment.

In terms of popularity, the classic non-date version (ref 124060) is the definitive professional diver’s ‘tool watch’, and in that regard it is essentially unchanged with its powerful Chromalight lume, no frills, bullet proof construction and 300m water resistance rating, although the most significant element in its evolution is safely locked away within. The brand new Calibre 3230 is a state of the art self winding mechanism which has been enhanced in every area over its predecessor and boasts a 70 hour power reserve, a friction reducing bearing mounted oscillating weight and the refined Chronergy Swiss lever escapement set-up which increases efficiency by 15%. Of all of the revisions across the 2020 Submariner collection, it is this new movement which most fundamentally carries the model into a new generation.

In terms of the Submariner Date however, it’s return of the ‘Kermit’ combination of green bezel and black lacquer dial in stainless steel (ref 126610LV) which is likely to prove the outright fan favourite, with the perennial black on black alternative (ref 126610LN) not far behind. As with the Submariner above and indeed the other references too, these feature staples such as the uni-directional rotating bezel with its beautifully engineered 120-clicks and hard wearing Cerachrome inserts.

The two-tone Rolesor variants feature either a metallic royal blue dial with complementing blue bezel (ref 126613LB) or similar in black on black (126613LN), while this same choice is also available in the full gold models (126618LB and 126618LN respectively).

Rounding off the collection, and most expensive is the white gold (ref 126619LB) which features blue bezel and black dial, a combination which will be familiar to fans as the ‘Smurf’.

As with the classic Submariner, the Submariner Date also benefits from being fitted with a new movement, albeit an existing one. Introduced in 2015, the Calibre 3255 is specced similarly to the 3230, with 70 hours of power reserve a 50% improvement and constructed using 90% new components, in advanced materials which significantly improve the mechanism’s anti-magnetic properties.

All eight models are presented on the Oyster bracelet and feature the extendable Glidelock system.

It’s not going to be often that a single millimetre will ignite so much passionate discussion, but the evolutionary development of the Rolex Submariner to 41 has taken a heck of a long time to happen. And so, despite everything else that 2020 has thrown at us, it will also be the year that marks a milestone in the history of an icon of watch design which has endured for more that sixty-five years and spawned a thousand lookalikes, but which for the Rolex lover can be the only one. And it is you know. It just might help to be in the know to get one though.

Fact File: Submariner 124060 (Classic)

Reference: 124060
Manufacturer: Rolex
Gender: Mens/Unisex
Case: Oystersteel 904L stainless steel
Case dimension: ø 41mm
Dial: Black with Chromalight luminous indices and hands
Features: Uni-directional rotating black Cerachrome bezel
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3230 self-winding, 28’800 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 70 hours
Caseback: Solid
Water resistance: 300m
Bracelet: Oystersteel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp and extendable Glidelock system
Warranty: Five years manufacturer
Price: € 7’700 / £ 6’450

Fact File: Submariner Date 126610LV (Kermit)

Reference: 126610LV
Manufacturer: Rolex
Gender: Mens/Unisex
Case: Oystersteel 904L stainless steel
Case dimension: ø 41mm
Dial: Black with Chromalight luminous indices and hands
Features: Uni-directional rotating green Cerachrome bezel
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3255 self-winding, 28’800 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 70 hours
Caseback: Solid
Water resistance: 300m
Bracelet: Oystersteel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp and extendable Glidelock system
Warranty: Five years manufacturer
Price: € 9’050 / £ 7’650

Fact File: Submariner Date 126610LN (Black/black)

Reference: 126610LN
Manufacturer: Rolex
Gender: Mens/Unisex
Case: Oystersteel 904L stainless steel
Case dimension: ø 41mm
Dial: Black with Chromalight luminous indices and hands
Features: Uni-directional rotating black Cerachrome bezel
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3255 self-winding, 28’800 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 70 hours
Caseback: Solid
Water resistance: 300m
Bracelet: Oystersteel Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp and extendable Glidelock system
Warranty: Five years manufacturer
Price: € 8’650 / £7’300

Fact File: Submariner Date 126613LB (Rolesor bi-metal blue/blue)

Reference: 126613LB
Manufacturer: Rolex
Gender: Mens/Unisex
Case: Oystersteel 904L stainless steel and yellow gold
Case dimension: ø 41mm
Dial: Blue with Chromalight luminous indices and hands
Features: Uni-directional rotating blue Cerachrome bezel
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3255 self-winding, 28’800 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 70 hours
Caseback: Solid
Water resistance: 300m
Bracelet: Rolesol Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp and extendable Glidelock system
Warranty: Five years manufacturer
Price: € 13’600 / £11’450

Fact File: Submariner Date 126613LN (Rolesor bi-metal black/black)

Reference: 126613LN
Manufacturer: Rolex
Gender: Mens/Unisex
Case: Oystersteel 904L stainless steel and yellow gold
Case dimension: ø 41mm
Dial: Black with Chromalight luminous indices and hands
Features: Uni-directional rotating black Cerachrome bezel
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3255 self-winding, 28’800 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 70 hours
Caseback: Solid
Water resistance: 300m
Bracelet: Rolesol Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp and extendable Glidelock system
Warranty: Five years manufacturer
Price: € 13’600 / £11’450

Fact File: Submariner Date 126618LB (18ct yellow gold blue/blue)

Reference: 126618LB
Manufacturer: Rolex
Gender: Mens/Unisex
Case: 18ct yellow gold
Case dimension: ø 41mm
Dial: Blue with Chromalight luminous indices and hands
Features: Uni-directional rotating blue Cerachrome bezel
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3255 self-winding, 28’800 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 70 hours
Caseback: Solid
Water resistance: 300m
Bracelet: 18ct yellow gold Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp and extendable Glidelock system
Warranty: Five years manufacturer
Price: € 35’200 / £29’650

Fact File: Submariner Date 126618LN (18ct yellow gold black/black)

Reference: 126618LN
Manufacturer: Rolex
Gender: Mens/Unisex
Case: 18ct yellow gold
Case dimension: ø 41mm
Dial: Black with Chromalight luminous indices and hands
Features: Uni-directional rotating black Cerachrome bezel
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3255 self-winding, 28’800 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 70 hours
Caseback: Solid
Water resistance: 300m
Bracelet: 18ct yellow gold Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp and extendable Glidelock system
Warranty: Five years manufacturer
Price: € 35’200 / £29’650

Fact File: Submariner Date 126619LB (18ct white gold blue/black ‘Smurf’)

Reference: 126619LB
Manufacturer: Rolex
Gender: Mens/Unisex
Case: 18ct yellow gold
Case dimension: ø 41mm
Dial: Black with Chromalight luminous indices and hands
Features: Uni-directional rotating black Cerachrome bezel
Movement: Rolex Calibre 3255 self-winding, 28’800 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 70 hours
Caseback: Solid
Water resistance: 300m
Bracelet: 18ct yellow gold Oyster link bracelet with folding clasp and extendable Glidelock system
Warranty: Five years manufacturer
Price: € 37’700 / £31’850