A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater White Gold

It would be tantamount to sacrilege to suggest that a new case material and dial colour equate to a make-over when you are writing about a timepiece like the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater by A. Lange & Söhne. However, while this is not a new model per se, and even though nothing other than the metal and dial hue has been changed since the model’s acclaimed launch in 2015, even a nip and a tuck to a “Lange” are enough to warrant a flurry of attention.

One could summarise the usp of this timepiece very simply – it has the accolade of being “the only watch that combines a mechanical jumping numerals display with a decimal minute repeater”. But that too would be doing a disservice to what A. Lange & Söhne achieved during its creation, and the years leading up to its first unveiling. And, while this rather contemporary aesthetic update does change the watches personality it is well worth going inside its pristine shiny white gold case and beneath its new deep blue dial to revisit what makes it special.

Putting an entirely new spin on the minute repeater mechanism, on this model, you can unusually, read the time in digital format, while also listening to the time.

On the dial, time reading is exceptionally clear. The aperture on the left indicates the current hour, while the one on the right displays the minutes. Beneath this pair of deep-set windows, discs enable the indications – one for the hour numerals 1 to 12 and two for the minutes.

Replicating the exact time, the tiny hammers for the tonal time can be viewed as they strike. For example, if the time is 5.32, below the hour window, you will hear five gong strikes for 5 o’clock and below the minutes aperture, the hammer will strike three double tones for each 10 minute cycle (for 30minutes passed) and two discernably higher pitched strikes for the minutes (for two minutes passed).

Enabling these gentle chimes, a pusher at the 10 o’clock position takes the place of the more traditional slider activation. This pleasurable audible experience happens in an instant, is perfectly accurate, and is extraordinarily complex too. For instance, while the chiming sequence is in operation, the numeral discs for the time will wait until the exact moment the chiming cycle is complete in order to offer protection to the movement.

Notably, the power for the striking mechanism is delivered directly by the mainspring barrel hence there is no need for a slide whose purpose is to tension a separate spring. So, as there is one single power source, if the watch deems that there is not enough power to enable the repeater to operate, it will refuse to chime and instead will flag up a red warning mark on the power reserve. A pusher activation also means that there is no opening in the case side which theoretically maximises the acoustics of the tone and, importantly it means that the movement can be sealed for water resistance of up to 30m.

Building in safety mechanisms has become a Lange speciality, and certainly this does make models such as this as fool-proof as is possible, and therefore also more durable and ultimately wearable but, the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is still very much an ultra-complex showcase piece.

Comprising of 771 individual components, the L043.5 manual-wind calibre which powers the piece is visually compelling and even an untrained eye will find the intricate floral hand-decoration and Glashütte-ribbing pleasing on the eye. As with all pieces from this prestigious Manufacture, what you get goes way beyond fancy finishing. During its hand-assembly process, it is precision-adjusted in five positions and as a safe-proof mechanism, a constant-force escapement or remontoire sends a steady flow of power to the escapement so that enough energy is available to ensure a smooth, instant advance for the numerals discs. The calibre beats at 18,000vph and has a power reserve of 36 hours.

As stated this is a new edition, which is presented with a deep blue dial and an 18ct white gold case. While this gives the piece a more contemporary feel, the real appeal of this model is to be found in its complex nature and in its exclusivity.

Limited to just 30 pieces, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater White Gold comes presented on a dark blue alligator leather strap.

Fact File: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater White Gold

REFERENCE: 147.028F
MANUFACTURER: A. Lange & Söhne
LIMITED EDITION: 30 pieces
CASE: 18ct. white gold, polished and brushed, sapphire crystal caseback
SIZE: ø 44.2 mm
THICKNESS: 14.1 mm
DIAL: Solid silver, deep blue toned, Rhodium-plated time bridge.
MOVEMENT: In-house Lange Manufacture Calibre L043.5 manual-wound, lever escapement, in-house balance spring, 18,000vph,
FUNCTIONS: Jumping hours and minutes, striking mechanism with decimal minute repeater, small seconds.
POWER RESERVE: 36 hours
BRACELET/STRAP: Blue alligator leather
BUCKLE: 18ct white gold deployant clasp
WATERPROOF RATING: 30m
PRICE: 449,000 EUR