When the first Hermès Arceau L'Heure de la Lune timepieces were unveiled last year, one could not help but hope that Hermès would give further attention to this utterly beguiling model. Thankfully this magnificent watch collection is grabbing attention once again, with five new dial editions to ponder over. After all, when you have created an exquisitely whimsical, yet complex masterpiece then you have definitely earned the right to play with your design.

If you ever get the chance to handle this piece, then prepare to become immersed in its fascinating façade. Because, while a moonphase complication is a charming addition to any watch, traditionally it is placed in its own petite aperture, as a subsidiary feature to what is going on elsewhere on the dial. However, with the Arceau L'Heure de la Lune, the current phase of the moon takes precedence. And, better still, it has a dual display, enabling simultaneous display of the lunar activity in both hemispheres.

Elevated above the twin moon display, the dials for the hours and minutes and for the date rotate once every 59 days. As they complete this enthralling carrousel, they cover and uncover the moons thus indicating the current phase of both.

While this poetic concept may appear at a glance to be simple, in order to create it Hermès collaborated with watchmaking Maestro Jean-François Mojon and there were many challenges to overcome.

For instance, while the time and date counters turn continuously, the current date and the number “12” always remain in the vertical position of each counter. To find a fixed reference from the centre to make this system workable would have made the module too thick. Instead, an external gear was created so the watch could maintain a gentle profile. The correction of the time and date also posed a conundrum, and was solved by using tiny star wheels for both functions.

In addition to the 193 components which make up the Hermès H1837 movement which powers the piece, another 117 individual parts were needed to create the module. Perhaps this alone illustrates its complex nature.

Having accomplished a technically challenging design, Hermès can now play with the aesthetics and this year they have unveiled five new dials with which to showcase their masterpiece.

Hermès Arceau L'heure de la lune Lapis Lazuli

First up, is the classical combination of an 18ct. red gold case paired with a blue Lapis Lazuli dial. Against this rich, shimmering backdrop, the white lacquered counters take on an even more pristine appearance, and have contrasting black Arabic numerals.

Hermès Arceau L'heure de la lune Blue Pearl

Fitted with an 18ct white gold case, the Blue Pearl edition has a dial made from hard stone which lends a textured appearance to the piece. This model carries smoky grey counters and silver transferred Arabic numerals giving it a mystical character.

Three of the new models are limited in production, and feature dials made from meteorite.

Hermés Arceau L'heure de la lune Black Sahara

The Black Sahara meteorite dial edition comes with an 18ct white gold case and the organic appearance of the stone really is entirely in keeping with the moon-ish personality of this collection. Silver lacquered counters and black transferred Arabic numerals add to the drama of this 30 piece limited edition.

Hermès Arceau L'heure de la lune Lunar meteorite

The Lunar meteorite version also has an 18ct white gold case, but for this piece, brown lacquered counters pick up the warm shades embedded in the fragments of the background material. A subtle gradient effect on the lacquer emphasises the nuances of the whole façade creating a luscious richness which makes this 30 piece edition all the more covetable.

Finally, the extraordinary Hermès Arceau L'Heure de la Lune Martian meteorite edition which has a dial composed of an actual sliver of meteorite from Mars. The panorama of the pristine white counters floating above this curious material makes it instantly fascinating. Limited to just 2 pieces, this platinum cased model is reassuringly exclusive in keeping the rarity of its dial.

Each model in the 2020 Hermès Arceau L'Heure de la Lune collection comes presented on one of the company’s superior alligator leather strap.

Fact File: Hermès Arceau L'Heure de la Lune

MANUFACTURER: Hermès
LIMITED EDITION: Martian meteorite dial editions limited to 2 pieces, Black Sahara meteorite dial limited to 30 pieces and Lunar meteorite dial limited to 36 pieces pieces for each variant.
CASE: White gold for Lunar and Black Sahara editions, Platinum for the Martian edition
SIZE: ø 43mm
DIAL: Lapis Lazuli, Blue Pearl, Lunar meteorite, Black Sahara meteorite or Martian meteorite. Mother-of-pearl moons, lacquered indications.
MOVEMENT: Hermès H1837 automatic winding, 28,800vph, exclusive module.
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, date, dual moonphase indicators for the northern and southern hemispheres.
POWER RESERVE: 50 hours
BRACELET/STRAP: Alligator leather Hermès straps.
BUCKLE: 18ct white gold folding clasp
WATERPROOF RATING: 30m