Dynamic Russian independent watchmaker and serial inventor of horologic intrigue Konstantin Chaykin unveils what he describes as his most complicated creation to date. Based on his wildly popular Wristmons series, the Martian Tourbillon is an extraordinary one-off for the Only Watch 2021 auction.

How Konstantin Chaykin does it I honestly do not know. As vanguard and the single human being most responsible for a nascent independent watchmaking scene in his own country, he is overseer of all that goes on in his Moscow-based manufactory; from design and innovation, through to development, testing and prototyping, and on to the watchmaking itself and final quality control, every piece which leaves his workshops on its way to an increasingly growing customer base has passed through his hands. If you think you work hard, a day in Konstantin Chaykin’s shoes would very probably make you reconsider that notion.

It’s not just that he is a watchmaker in the common understanding of the profession. No, that would be the easy way to do things, and anyway, where would be the challenge in simply putting his own spin on something which has been done before. Chaykin’s watches typically defy either aesthetic or technical convention - and usually both, and offer a perspective on the time display which is like looking at time through a distorting lens. With ninety or so patents (and counting…) framed and hanging on his office walls, he is also relentless and prolific.

Describing his latest creation, the Martian Tourbillon Only Watch 2021, as “the culmination of eighteen years of creative activity as a watchmaker”, which is quite a claim considering some of his previous work, this extraordinary watch is destined to be a pièce unique; a one of one which after the Only Watch auction in November this year for which it has been produced, it will probably never be seen in the wild again. It is a truly remarkable thing which brings together elements of two of his recent concepts; the Joker family of Wristmons, and a subject which has been occupying much of his time recently, that of real time on another planet; Mars to be specific. Chaykin’s Mars Time Project essentially has required a technical reworking of the mechanics of the time display, through a combination of mathematic calculations and engineering of the gearing which ultimately command the dial side indicators of hours, minutes and even day and date in Martian values.

Appearance-wise, the Martian Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 borrows on the wide-eyed grinning expression of the Joker, with its opposing crowns at the three and the nine, which operate the time and date setting respectively, but the similarities end right there. The normally colourful dial is monochrome and skeletonised, with a silver-grey tone, contrasting in the shades of rhodium and ruthenium, and of the varying finishing techniques applied. Little touches of orange detail are used for the time and calendar indications, while the inner workings of the new in-house K.22-0 movement are exposed in a visually striking three dimensional vista.

The 40mm case is manufactured in true bulat stainless steel, a uniquely Russian alloy with a history dating back to medieval times. The bulat steel has previously been seen on Lunokhod and another Only Watch one-off, the 2019 Joker Selfie, and has a grey colour which is accentuated by a coarse textured finish, giving the watch a shimmery appearance. Under the skin and behind its open worked robot-like visage, the mechanism is all new, and while in development and the process of overcoming its many technical hurdles, has been the source of many sleepless nights for the watchmaker.

Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon Only Watch 2021

As a technical starting point, the ‘eyes’ display the hours and minutes on the left and right respectively. The strange Martian ‘hieroglyphics’ were devised by Chaykin and are used throughout the watch as numerals to indicate the time, as well as the date and weekday on the calendar, which has been incorporated into the crescent ‘smile’. According to the watchmaker, this feature presented him with a logistical conundrum, as from the outset there was never any question of not utilising the Joker’s wide grinning mouth to accommodate the day and date functions, but positioning the module where that could be achieved proved to be a considerable technical obstacle.

Below: Chaykin’s Martian symbols depicting weekdays from Sunday to Saturday and numerals.

The Martian month consists of 28 days or ‘sols’ and so is exactly four weeks long, and these are charted out in two week blocks, with the weekdays defined by symbols along the centre, and the dates along the upper and lower rows. The orange box indicator which highlights the current day and date has a retrograde action, and as it springs back to start another two week cycle, another indicator in the mechanism itself, yet visible on the open worked display moves between two positions to inform which of the two cycles is currently in use.

Logically, the hour and minute displays also indicate Martian time, via orange ring indicators, with 24 hours, 39 minutes and 35 seconds in earth values making up the Martian day. The added feature of a combined am/pm and day/night indication - another Chaykin innovation - discreetly shows behind the hour dial.

If any individual aspect really drives home the complexity and genius of this piece, then perhaps the 61.65 second (or one Martian minute) cycle of the tourbillon which is hidden round the back of the watch is it. As you watch it rotating through the sapphire caseback, you might contemplate the almost absurd effort invested in creating this single, solitary timepiece, especially considering that in terms of the simple practicality of telling the time here on planet Earth it is essentially unusable, is truly remarkable - maybe there will be other versions to come? Yet for Konstantin Chaykin, doing what no-one else has even considered doing before is grist to his mill.

The tourbillon, the first ever to be fully manufactured in Russia, features the ‘alpha’ carriage which has become something of a signature feature on Chaykin’s tourbillon pieces. At its heart the balance oscillates at a highly unusual, nay unique rate of 19,270 vib/h, because of course it is calibrated to Mars time, and that equates to a Martian-friendly frequency of 19,800 vib/h.

Developed exclusively for the Martian Tourbillon, and comprising some 326 individual components, the K.22-0 manual winding movement has a power reserve of forty-eight hours, and is entirely conceived, designed and developed in-house. The underside features Côtes de Genève stripes on a three quarter plate, which is also signed with the Only Watch motif, and a closer examination reveals the subtle little detail of the famous Joker’s face, which is engraved on the crown wheel.

A remarkable and fascinating horologic curio from one of the most profoundly inventive minds of our time, the Martian Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 goes under the hammer on November 6th, along with over fifty unique pieces donated by the watchmaking community, to raise funds for this most deserving of causes, in the battle to find a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

Fact File: Martian Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 by Konstantin Chaykin

Reference: Martian Tourbillon Only Watch 2021
Manufacturer: Konstantin Chaykin
Case: True bulat stainless steel
Case dimension: ø 40mm, H 13.4mm
Dial: Joker-style face configuration with individual hour and minute displays and retrograde calendar function
Features: Time and day/date in Martian time
Movement: In-house K.22-0 manual winding calibre by Konstantin Chaykin, 19’270 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, calendar (Martian time values)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Caseback: Sapphire glass
Water resistance: n/a
Bracelet: Orange alligator leather strap with pin buckle
Price: See Only Watch auction on November 6, 2021