With a sophisticated reversible case, offering two very different displays, and an astonishing new in-house movement which includes a very unique feature, Dresden based independent Marco Lang returns under his own banner, with his remarkable new Zweigesicht masterpiece.

As co-founder of much loved and highly successful Dresden indie brand Lang und Heyne, Marco Lang is not exactly what you’d call a new face on the independent watchmaking landscape, but after almost twenty years building both his company and a reputation as a watchmaker of rare talent, he has turned back the clock to go solo, to reconnect with hands-on watchmaking, and under his own name has released the inaugural Zweigesicht masterpiece, to announce the beginning of a new chapter in an illustrious career.

A long-standing member of watchmaking’s independent elite association, the AHCI, if Marco Lang’s work has a defining hallmark, it is one of uncompromising attention to detail, breathtaking finishing and technical complexity, coupled with a contemporary take on classical design, and in keeping with those values, the Zweigesicht is everything we have come to expect from his atelier, and more.

Its name translating as “Two Face”, Zweigesicht has, unsurprisingly two faces, and indeed two distinct personalities, with on one side a beautifully appointed three-hand dial, while on the other, laid out beneath a skeletonised dial, the symmetrical haute horlogerie mechanism is a feast for the eyes.

Depending on the mood the watch can be worn either way, although at first, exactly how you go about doing that is not immediately obvious, as it does not appear to pivot, yet whichever side is facing upwards, the crown is always to the right (compared for example to the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre, in which the crown traverses from right to left when flipped over), and the lugs, which have a downward curvature, remain unchanged. It’s something of a mystery at first, but the solution, which preserves the elegance and integrity of the concept’s design is both clever and simple, and the work of just a few moments to do.

The round case actually physically detaches from the lugs completely, and can be turned over through 180º in a north-south action (so the crown is always to the right). Set in to the underside on each of the lug parts, a pair of concealed screws release spigots which connect the case to the lugs, allowing a relatively straightforward changeover, before clicking back into place and fastening securely with a reverse half-turn of the screws.

The case itself is round, with gently domed sapphire crystals, rounded polished bezels, a flat satin waist with satin finish, and a fluted crown, which nestles between two sloping shoulders on either side. It is offered in stainless steel, rose gold or platinum options and measures a tidy 40mm across and 12.5mm tall. As mentioned above, the lugs are box-shaped and extend out from the case, curving down to a rounded end.

Of the two options, the more classical layout features a three-part silver-plated dial, with slender faceted ‘pencil’ hands (in either blued steel or gold) and fine clous de Paris guillochage decoration on the recessed centre, with minutes track and applied gold indices around the periphery. While the elegant, elongated roman numerals give the dial a traditional feel, the design is otherwise minimal, contemporary and stylish.

On the reverse face, the finishing and architecture of the fully exposed movement is genuinely impressive. Produced in-house by Marco Lang himself, his all new ML01 calibre is a three dimensional and symmetric contrast of frosted gold, satin and polished rhodium, flame-blued steel and the translucent grand feu enamel which defines the reduced dial. Skeletonised so as not to impair any of the spectacle beneath it, the solid silver dial is clearly influenced by the art of stained glass, and the blue enamel accentuates its fine outlines and the delicacy of the blued steel cathedral hands.

Below the dial, the manual wound mechanism features two barrels, which deliver a minimum 70 hours power reserve, and which are secured beneath the largest of the three central bridges, descending in span as the eye follows the gear train upwards across the winding assembly to the balance bridge, which is adorned with diamond-topped balance staff.

The keen-eyed will also soon notice a curious but elaborate little indication, with very fine blued steel pointers and tapering red markings adjacent to the nine o’clock position. This is in fact a tiny horological seismograph, which via a moving cylindrical weight (pink) detects and displays the effects of the minor impacts a wristwatch will endure as it goes though daily life.

With each bump, the weight moves the two overlapping swinging arms with red gradients and tiny teeth which catch the tips of the four hands, spreading them along two (x,y) axes, and then holding them locked in place, until freed and reset to their central resting position via a corrector on the side of the case. Although an ‘optional extra’, and not a critical component of the actual movement itself, the shock sensor is an intricate, fascinating and unique novelty which complements the Zweigesicht, and it is unlikely that too many, if any, will leave Marco Lang’s workshops without it.

In typical Lang style, the detailing throughout is astonishing. Be it the anglage on the curving edges and pronounced tips of the bridges, or the immaculate cut of each one of the miniscule polished gear teeth, be it the uniformity of the blued steel components or the pure aesthetic beauty of the gossamer-thin shock pointers, there are few watchmakers who go to such lengths in the pursuit of perfection.

As each piece is individually made, with a degree of flexibility regarding final bespoke configuration, Marco Lang anticipates a production of between four and five pieces leaving his Dresden atelier each year. In total there will be eighteen examples manufactured. Interestingly its full title

An exceptional watch from an exceptional talent to wind up an exceptional year, when we look back on it Zweigesicht will stand as testament that 2020 did have its good things too.

Fact File: Zweigesicht-1 by Marco Lang

Reference: Zweigesicht-1
Manufacturer: Marco Lang
Gender: Mens
Case: Stainless steel/18ct rose gold/platinum
Case dimension: ø 40mm, H 12.5mm
Dial: Silver-plated with clous de Paris decoration, roman numerals, applied indices and pencil hands
Reverse: Skeletonised dial with exposed mechanism, with grenage, polished and satin finish bridges, blued steel hands and detail
Features: Reversible case with two display options
Movement: In-house ML01 manual winding calibre by Marco Lang, 21’600 vib/h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 70 hours
Caseback: Sapphire glass
Water resistance: 50m
Bracelet: Alligator leather strap with sharkskin inner and pin buckle
Price: Steel €57,000; 18ct rose gold €65,000; 950/1000 platinum €68,000