Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo and Classic Chronograph Tuxedo Watches
Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo and Classic Chronograph Tuxedo Watches
Sometimes simple authenticity is enough and the new Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo and Classic Chronograph Tuxedo models have that in abundance.
Longines follow up their recently presented Spirit Collection (which we reviewed here) with a pair of black / white dialled pieces hence the stylish title of “Tuxedo”.
Longines have not tweaked or fiddled with the styling of the original models which give these pieces their DNA, except to upsize their cases and add modern calibres. Therefore they remain largely untouched except for a nip and a tuck. The continued appreciation for original timepieces from the 40s and 50s has been a lifeline for many brands, and Longines have proven that they can handle their own heritage with sensitivity. You’ve heard the adage - if it’s not broke, don’t fix it… well it wasn’t and they don’t.
The first piece, the time only Classic Heritage Tuxedo carries stainless steel case sized at 38.5mm. On the dial, a silver-toned opaline centre offers a contrast to the black hours track at its perimeter. Decorative snailing on the small seconds at six o’clock is the only contemporary feature on an otherwise classically restrained façade. The model is equipped with the manual wind Calibre L893, based on the ETA A31.501. Beating at a quirky 25,200vph, the calibre has a silicon balance spring, and offers an extended reserve of power of up to 64 hours.
If your preference leans more towards a bi-compax dial arrangement, then the Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph Tuxedo has all the charm of a vintage piece while having the advantage of up-to-date engineering.
This piece offers the same monochrome dial aesthetics of its little brother, but adds blue accents to the mix. Exhibiting neat proportions, the counters are tucked neatly towards the centre, thus leaving ample space for a tachymeter scale which can actually be read, should you have the need to do so. The model is presented in a stainless steel case, sized at 40mm and is topped with a domed sapphire crystal which gives just a hint of fuzziness when viewed side-on, a requisite feature for any good retro-designed timepiece.
While many enthusiasts are hell-bent on investing in true vintage chronographs, the advantages of buying new pieces often outweigh the advantage of an “honest” patina. Dust and moisture can cause ruinous damage to the delicate mechanisms which enable a chronograph to function properly, and just like when shopping for a used car, if you haven’t got a service record you have no idea what’s been going on underneath the hood, or with a vintage watch, inside the case. With this in mind, this superb Tuxedo chronograph which is powered by a modern ETA-based automatic calibre is a endearing proposition. Longines have upgraded the base calibre and customised it to extend the power reserve and they have also fitted it with a silicon balance spring. Best of all you can have it for a snip of the price which vintage chronographs are exchanging prices for, and with no buyer’s fees etc.
Both Tuxedo models have engraved solid casebacks and they wear on black leather calfskin leather straps
Fact File: Longines Classic Heritage Tuxedo
MANUFACTURER: Longines
CASE: Stainless steel
SIZE: 38.5mm
DIAL: Silver opaline and black dial, rhodium-plated hands and numerals
MOVEMENT: Calibre L893 automatic ETA A31.501base, 25,200 vph, silicon balance spring
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, small seconds
POWER RESERVE: 64 hours
BRACELET/STRAP: Black leather strap
BUCKLE: Pin buckle
WATERPROOF RATING: 30m
PRICE EUR €1’920
Fact File: Longines Classic Chronograph Tuxedo
MANUFACTURER: Longines
CASE: Stainless steel
SIZE: ø 40mm
DIAL: Silver opaline and black dial, rhodium-plated hands and numerals, tachymeter scale
MOVEMENT: Calibre L895 automatic (ETA A31.L21) , silicon balance spring, 28,800vph
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock, central chronograph hand, 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock
POWER RESERVE: 54 hours
BRACELET/STRAP: Leather
BUCKLE: Pin buckle
WATERPROOF RATING: 30m
PRICE EUR €2’880
