Nordic Noir - S.U.F Helsinki 180 Noki and Noki Nero editions
Ushering in the new year with a pair of 25-piece limited editions from his S.U.F brand, Finnish independent Stepan Sarpaneva kicks off his twentieth anniversary celebrations with the new 180 Noki and 180 Noki Nero models.
Although much better known on the international stage for the inimitable high-end creations which bear his surname, and whose uncompromising designs and eclectic beauty have made him one of the most popular figures on the independent watch sector landscape over the past decade, Stepan Sarpaneva has also operated a second, not so much ‘underground’ brand, but one which has allowed him the freedom to follow a very different direction to his exotic signature timepieces. S.U.F (or Sarpaneva Uhren Fabrik) Helsinki has existed in parallel from the outset of his solo career, and has a much more utilitarian identity which is defined by its more conventionally styled pieces.
S.U.F 180 Noki and 180 Noki Nero
Conceived by the watchmaker as both a nostalgic nod at its past and as a pointer towards the future of the brand, the S.U.F 180 Noki editions are manufactured in high grade, Finnish-made Outokumpo steel, and are offered in a choice of either black DLC (180NN) or bare metal (180N) with a brushed finish. Measuring 38.7mm across and 9.4mm tall, it has a 100m depth rating, and both versions are presented on a black Nordic elk leather strap, with a second Grassbay fabric strap included in the package.
The classic field watch markings in silver (numerals) and grey (minutes track) are punctuated with luminous dot indices and prominent luminous quarter references which complement the smoky ‘Lampblack’ dial, which is inspired by the traditional Finnish savusauna (smokesauna), while the sunray finish causes the faded fumé effect to change appearance as the watch moves with the motion of the wrist. The polished steel hands with Super-LumiNova accents provide crisp legibility while the blued steel lollipop-style seconds hand with luminous dot adds a nice element of detail to the display.
The 180 Noki watches are powered by Sarpaneva’s favoured Swiss Soprod A10 self winding movements which run at a brisk 28,800vib/h, and which have been individually modified and calibrated in the converted Nokia Cable Factory in Helsinki which is home to the S.U.F workshop, with rhodium plating, perlage and côtes de Geneve detailing visible through the sapphire caseback. Fully wound the mechanism has a power reserve of at least 42 hours.
Priced at €2,500 and €3,000 respectively (excluding VAT/taxes), the 180N and 180NN editions are in keeping with S.U.F’s accessible value philosophy, and while considerably less expensive than their Sarpaneva siblings, it’s worth keeping in mind that these are still very well made watches manufactured using high quality materials with reliable Swiss movements and a level of subtle detailing which reflect the touch of one of today’s sharpest designers and watchmakers.
Fact File: S.U.F Helsinki 180 Noki and Noki Nero
Reference: 180N (Noki)/180NN (Noki Nero)
Manufacturer: S.U.F Helsinki
Case: Finnish made Outokumpo stainless steel (NN version with black DLC)
Case dimension: ø 38.7mm, H 9.4mm
Dial: Lampblack fumé with grey and silver printed markings, luminous indices
Features: Polished steel hands with luminous accents, blued steel lollipop-style seconds pointer
Movement: Soprod A10 self-winding, 28,800 vib/hr (4Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Power reserve: 42 hours
Caseback: Sapphire glass
Water resistance: 10 ATM/100m
Strap: Black Nordic elk leather with pin buckle, additional Grassbay fabric strap supplied
Price: 180N €2,500 ex-Vat, 180NN €3,100 ex-Vat
