Cartier Santos-Dumont 2020 Limited Editions

New for 2020, and presented at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the Cartier Santos-Dumont Engraved Limited Edition watches commemorate the dashing pioneer aviator who instigated the first wrist-worn timepiece.

Brazilian Alberto Santos-Dumont is of course famous for his death-or-glory attempts to fly his curious self-designed machines. However, when the dapper Dumont complained to his friend Louis Cartier that his pocket watch was impractical while at the controls of this rudimentary aircraft, his fortuitous remarks gave birth to the creation of the world’s first proper men’s wristwatch, which evolved to become the “Cartier Santos”

In honour of watchmaking’s first true ambassador, four new limited edition Cartier Santos-Dumont timepieces have been unveiled, each with case back engravings of Dumont’s aircraft.

Let’s begin with the Cartier Santos-Dumont La Demoiselle watch, the larger and more exclusive of the quartet.

Sized at 46.6mm x 33.9mm, and encased in platinum, the model captures the debonair spirit of Dumont. Featuring a crème dial with a textured centre and matching strap, the motif is a nod to the stylish Panama hat worn by Cartier’s dashing hero.

Perfectly suited to the larger case size, the elegant plainness of the platinum is off-set by the unusual colour tones of the dial and strap, and the richness of its ruby cabochon-set crown. On the reverse of the case the profile of “La Demoiselle” is engraved in celebration of Dumont’s most accomplished flying machine.

Limited to just 30 pieces, the Cartier Santos-Dumont La Demoiselle comes presented in an exclusive lacquered maple wood box with an additional brown alligator strap, an alligator leather watch travel case and a set of Santos de Cartier cufflinks. Enhancing its rarity further still, sharp-eyed Cartier enthusiasts will no doubt take note of and appreciate the subtle references to Dumont whose name appears within the number seven numeral in place of the traditional Cartier signature.

Housed in smaller 43.5mm x 31.4mm cases, the other three models also have names inspired by Dumont’s aircraft and they too celebrate his designs through unique case back engravings.

The 100 piece Cartier Santos-Dumont Le Brésil has a silvered dial and platinum case. Almost entirely monochrome except for its vivid ruby cabochon winding crown, the piece is named in honour of Dumont’s very first machine “Le Brésil” which he created – incredibly, back in 1898.

While the Le Brésil model has resolutely modern aesthetics, the Cartier Santos-Dumont La Baladeuse model is a luxurious classic and is limited to 300 pieces. Featuring a glorious combination of 18ct yellow gold case and champagne dial it is the epitome of restrained elegance, and its pert blue sapphire-set winding crown just begs to be fiddled with. On the reverse of the case is the outline of “La Baladeuse”, which was a familiar sight above the Parisian roof-tops in 1903.

Finishing off this superb new collection, the Santos-Dumont Le.14 Bis model will be a limited edition of 500 pieces. The piece carries a stainless steel case topped with a yellow gold bezel and its anthracite grey dial ensures that the signature Cartier elongated Roman numerals become standout features. Adhering to the historical theme, the case back is engraved with the face-on profile of the kite-like “Le.14 Bis” arguably the most precarious looking of all Dumont’s ingenious designs.

Each piece in the new Cartier Santos-Dumont Engraved Limited Edition collection is powered by the Cartier Calibre 430 MC hand-wound movement and they all come presented on alligator leather straps, except for the textured version for the highly covetable and utterly gorgeous La Demoiselle edition.

Fact File: Cartier Santos-Dumont Le Brésil

MANUFACTURER: Cartier
LIMITED EDITION: 100
CASE: Platinum, ruby-set winding crown, engraved caseback
SIZE: ø43.5mm x 31.4mm
THICKNESS: 7.3mm
DIAL: Silvered dial, polished metallic Roman numerals, sword-shaped hands
MOVEMENT: Cartier Calibre 430 MC hand-wound movement
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes
POWER RESERVE: 38hours
BRACELET/STRAP: Grey alligator leather strap
BUCKLE: Pin buckle
WATERPROOF RATING: 30m
PRICE: $18,700 USD

Fact File: Cartier Santos-Dumont La Baladeuse

REFERENCE:
MANUFACTURER: Cartier
LIMITED EDITION: 300
CASE: 18ct yellow gold, sapphire-set winding crown, engraved caseback.
SIZE: ø43.5mm x 31.4mm
THICKNESS: 7.3mm
DIAL: Champagne dial, blued sword-shaped hands,
MOVEMENT: Cartier Calibre 430 MC hand-wound movement
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes
POWER RESERVE: 38hours
BRACELET/STRAP: Green alligator leather
BUCKLE: Pin buckle
WATERPROOF RATING: 30m
PRICE: $14,300USD

Fact File: Cartier Santos-Dumont Le.14 Bis

MANUFACTURER: Cartier
CASE: 18ct. yellow gold and stainless steel, blue spinel-set winding crown, engraved caseback
SIZE: ø43.5mm x 31.4mm
THICKNESS: 7.3mm
DIAL: Anthracite grey, steel sword-shaped hands
MOVEMENT: Cartier Calibre 430 MC hand-wound movement
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes,
POWER RESERVE: 38 hours
BRACELET/STRAP: Grey alligator leather
BUCKLE: Pin buckle
WATERPROOF RATING: 30m
PRICE: $7,250 USD